If you've recently moved or just want more flexibility, learning how to convert a natural gas grill to propane is a project that can save you from buying a brand-new cooker. It's a common situation: you have a perfectly good grill that was hooked up to your house's main gas line, but your new place doesn't have a hookup, or maybe you just want to move the grill to the far corner of the patio where a pipe can't reach. Whatever the reason, making the switch isn't as daunting as it sounds, though you definitely need to pay attention to the details.
Can your grill actually be converted?
Before you run out and start buying parts, you've got to check if your specific model even allows this. Not every grill is "dual-fuel" or "convertible." Most manufacturers build their grills specifically for one type of gas because natural gas and propane behave very differently. Propane is stored at much higher pressure and contains more energy per cubic foot than natural gas.
Look for a sticker or a metal plate on the back or inside the cabinet of your grill. It should list the fuel type and, hopefully, a model number. You can then check the manufacturer's website or your owner's manual. If the manual says "Natural Gas Only" and doesn't mention a conversion kit, stop right there. Forcing a conversion on a grill not designed for it is a major fire hazard. However, if your grill is "convertible," you're in business.
Why you need a conversion kit
You can't just slap a propane hose onto a natural gas grill and call it a day. If you do that, you'll likely end up with massive, soot-heavy orange flames that are impossible to control. This happens because the holes (called orifices) that the gas flows through on a natural gas grill are much larger than those on a propane grill. Since propane is under higher pressure, those big holes let way too much fuel through.
The heart of knowing how to convert a natural gas grill to propane lies in the conversion kit. This kit usually includes: * New orifices: These are small brass fittings with tiny, precisely drilled holes. * A propane regulator and hose: This reduces the pressure coming out of the tank to a level the grill can handle. * A new manifold or gas valves (sometimes): Depending on the brand, you might need to swap out the whole gas rail. * Orifice removal tool: Usually just a small nut driver or socket.
Always buy the kit made specifically for your brand and model. Don't try to use a "universal" kit unless the manufacturer explicitly recommends it, as even a tiny difference in the orifice size can ruin your temperature control.
Gathering your tools
You won't need a massive workshop for this, but having the right tools on hand will keep you from getting frustrated halfway through. You'll generally need: * The manufacturer-approved conversion kit. * A set of wrenches (adjustable or open-end). * A screwdriver (Phillips or flathead, depending on your grill's hardware). * Pliers. * A socket set (small sizes like 6mm or 7mm are common for orifices). * Pipe thread sealant (the yellow tape or goop rated for gas, not the white stuff for water pipes). * A spray bottle with soapy water (for leak testing).
Step-by-step: making the switch
Once you've got your kit and tools, it's time to get to work. Make sure you're working in a well-ventilated area and that the gas is completely turned off and disconnected.
1. Strip it down
Remove the grill grates, the heat tents (those V-shaped metal covers over the burners), and the burners themselves. Most burners are held in place by a single screw or a cotter pin at the back. Be careful not to drop these small parts into the bottom of the grill—they have a way of disappearing into the grease.
2. Swap out the orifices
Once the burners are out, look into the holes where the burner tubes used to sit. You'll see the brass orifices sticking out of the gas valves. Use your socket wrench to unscrew the old natural gas orifices. Be gentle here; brass is soft and easy to strip.
Take the new propane orifices from your kit and screw them in by hand first to make sure they aren't cross-threaded. Tighten them down with the wrench, but don't overdo it. They just need to be snug.
3. Change the regulator and hose
The natural gas hose is usually a long, flexible gray or black hose with a quick-connect fitting. Disconnect this from the grill's manifold (the main pipe that feeds the valves). You'll likely need two wrenches for this—one to hold the manifold steady and one to turn the hose fitting.
Apply a bit of gas-rated thread sealant to the threads of your new propane hose and regulator assembly. Screw it onto the manifold and tighten it firmly.
4. Adjust the air shutters
This is a step people often miss when learning how to convert a natural gas grill to propane. Because propane needs more air to burn cleanly than natural gas does, you usually have to adjust the air shutters on the ends of the burner tubes.
The air shutter is a little sliding or rotating metal piece at the end of the burner that goes over the orifice. Your kit's instructions should tell you the specific gap measurement (usually around 1/4 inch to 1/2 inch for propane). Loosen the screw on the shutter, move it to the correct position, and tighten it back down.
Testing for leaks
Now that everything is back together, don't just spark it up and start flipping burgers. You need to check for leaks. Connect your propane tank and turn the valve on slowly.
Spray your soapy water solution on every connection you touched: the tank connection, the regulator-to-hose connection, and the hose-to-manifold connection. If you see bubbles growing, you've got a leak. Turn the gas off immediately, tighten the connection, and try again. If it still bubbles, you might need more thread sealant or a different fitting.
The first light-up
If there are no bubbles, go ahead and put the burners, heat tents, and grates back in. Open the lid and turn on one burner to "High." Click the igniter. It might take a few seconds for the air to bleed out of the new hose before the gas hits the spark.
Once it lights, look at the flame. A healthy propane flame should be mostly blue with maybe a tiny flicker of yellow at the very tips. If the flame is mostly yellow or orange and looks "lazy," your air shutters probably need to be opened more. If the flame is lifting off the burner and making a roaring sound, the shutters might be too open.
A few final thoughts
Converting your grill is a great way to adapt to a new lifestyle without ditching your favorite piece of backyard hardware. It's also a good excuse to give the interior of the grill a deep clean while you have the burners out.
Remember, if at any point you feel unsure about the gas connections or if things don't seem to be fitting quite right, call a pro. Dealing with high-pressure gas isn't something to take lightly, and a quick service call from a local gas technician is a lot cheaper than a trip to the emergency room or a scorched patio. But if you follow the instructions in your manufacturer's kit and take your time, you'll find that knowing how to convert a natural gas grill to propane is a handy skill that'll keep the BBQ going for years to come.